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Aquatic Care

About Neon Tetra

About Neon Tetra

The Neon Tetra is probably the world's most popular small tropical fish that really brightens up a freshwater tropical aquarium. Neon tetra (Paracheirodon innesi) inhabit loactions in South America - the Rio Taquari, Brazilarea and Paraguay River basins. In the wild the neon tetra prefers to live in slow tributaries of large rivers with dark water that flows through the thick rain forest, so very small amount of sunlight gets into the water. The neon tetra lives in schools, a mid-level swimmer, and feeds on different insects.

Are Neon Tetra's easy to care for?
Neon tetra fish are quite easy to care for, and have no special dietary requirements. However, neon tetra are not particularly hardy and may struggle to acclimatise and thrive in water of a higher pH. A pH level of around 6.5 would be ideal, and is definitely worth checking prior to adding to your tank to avoid issues. Neons are a shoaling fish and thrive in higher numbers, so having a larger aquarium with plenty of swimming room and good filtration is highly recommended.
Features
Approx. size: 1-2cm
Maximum size: 4cm
Origin: South America
Ideal number kept together: 6+
Water Conditions
Our conditions: pH 7, temp 25 °C
Ideal pH: 5–7
Hardness: 18–215 ppm
Ideal temperature: 20–28 °C
Ease of Care
Easy. This tropical fish is great for hobbyist at all levels however they do need excellent water conditions as they are not a particularly hardy or long-lived fish, and can be quite sensitive to different water chemistry, especially when initially acclimatising. A lower pH of around 6.5 is recommended.
Feeding
Omnivorous. The main food we recommend would be flake crushed up or small granules. As the Neon Tetra's are small they cannot take big granules. Occasional live or frozen food can be given as a treat, such as bloodworm and daphnia.
Compatibility
Community with fish of a similar size. They feel most comfortable when in a shoal of other Neon's. Popular tankmates include guppies, white cloud mountain minnow, harlequin rasbora.
Breeding
Breeding may be challenging, because special water parameters are required. For successful breeding a tank with soft water 1-2 dGH and pH 5.0 – 6.0 is required. If the tank water is harder, neon tetra eggs won’t get inseminated.
Life Span
Because Neon Tetra are quite intensively bred in captivity, they are not considered a particularly hardy or long-lived fish. Neon Tetra have a lifespan of 1-3 years in perfect conditions.

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About Zebra Danio

About Zebra Danio

The Zebra Danio, danio rerio, also known as the zebrafish, is a tropical fish belonging to the minnow family Cyprinidae. Zebra Danios are distributed across Bangladesh, India, Pakistan, Myanmar, and Nepal. It is so named due to the striped patterning on the body. Danios are a shoaling species that can encourage timid species to venture out, and have been referred to as 'dither fish' due to their active nature. There are a few colour variations of zebra danio's available, including shades of gold and dark blue - colour will be supplied at random subject to availability.

In the wild, the danio's are found in along the surface of small, clear rivers and hill streams. Zebra Danio's are a very hardy fish that like to shoal together which makes them great for beginners. They are suitable for indoor cold/temperate water tanks also.

Where do Zebra Danio fish originate from?
Where do Zebra Danios come from? Danios, fishes belonging to the family Cyprinidae, are believed to originate from south and southeast Asia. You will find the Zebra Danio in India, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Myanmar, Nepal and across southern Asia. Over the years Danios have been traditionally one of the most popular tropical fish kept by hobbyists.

Are Zebra Danios fin-nippers, will they nip the fins of other fish?
Danios may have small bouts of fin-nipping with any long-finned tank mates but this should not be too serious. Pearl Danios have a very small mouth, so any damage will be fairly limited and is unlikely to persist. Fancy goldfish do make suitable tank mates, however as a precaution it is not generally recommended that they are kept with slow-swimming long-finned tankmates. 


Features

Approx. size: 2-4cm / 1-2"
Maximum size: 5cm / 2"
Origin: Asia
Family: Cyprinidae
Temperament: Peaceful
Lighting requirement: low
Ideal number kept together: 6+ schooling

Water conditions
Our conditions: pH 7.5, temp 20°C
Ideal pH: 6.0–8.0
Ideal temperature: 16–25°C
Waterflow: low to moderate

Ease of care
Easy. They can adapt very well to changes in water temperature and conditions. Slight fin-nipping tendencies.

Diet
The main food we recommend would be flake or pellets. They can occasionally have live or frozen foods.

Compatibility

Community of similar size. They feel most comfortable when in a shoal of other Danios.

Breeding/ Sex
Moderate as they are egg layers with minimal parental care.

Life Span

Danios have a lifespan of anything from 2-3 years in perfect conditions.

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About Leopard Danios

About Leopard Danios

The Leopard Danio is a tropical fish belonging to the minnow family Cyprinidae. Originating in Sumatra, Myanmar, and Thailand. In the wild, the danio's are found in along the surface of small, clear rivers and hill streams. Leopard Danio's are a very hardy fish that like to shoal together which makes them great for beginners. They are suitable for indoor cold/temperate water tanks also.

Where do Leopard Danio fish originate from?
Where do Leopard Danios come from? Well, Danios, fishes belonging to the family Cyprinidae, originate from south and southeast Asia. You will find the Leopard Danio in Sumatra, Myanmar, and Thailand across southern Asia. Over the years Danios have been traditionally one of the most popular tropical fish kept by hobbyists.

Are Leopard Danios fin-nippers, will they nip the fins of other fish?
Danios may have small bouts of fin-nipping with any long-finned tank mates but this should not be too serious. It is generally recommended that you avoid keeping with slower-swimming varieties of long-finned fish however. Leopard Danios have a very small mouth, so any damage will be fairly limited and is unlikely to persist. The the size of the food should reflect this, so feed fine granules, such as Betta or Fry food granules.


Features

Approx. size: 2-4cm / 1-2"
Maximum size: 5cm / 2"
Origin: Asia
Family: Cyprinidae
Temperament: Peaceful
Lighting requirement: low
Ideal number kept together: 6+ schooling

Water conditions
Our conditions: pH 7.5, temp 20°C
Ideal pH: 6.0–8.0
Ideal temperature: 18–25°C
Waterflow: low to moderate

Ease of care
Easy. They can adapt very well to changes in water temperature and conditions. Slight fin-nipping tendencies.

Diet
The main food we recommend would be flake or pellets. They can occasionally have live or frozen foods.

Compatibility

Community of similar size. They feel most comfortable when in a shoal of other Danios.

Breeding/ Sex
Moderate as they are egg layers with minimal parental care.

Life Span

Danios have a lifespan of anything from 2-3 years in perfect conditions.

 

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About Swordtail Fish

About Swordtail Fish

Origin and Distribution

Swordtail fish have been a vibrant component of the aquarium hobbyists community for many years. Originating from Mexico and Central America, the Swordtail has been bred in captivity for countless generations. There are many varieties widely available to the aquarium community, including the naturally colored green swordtail, as well as neon, pineapple, painted, marigold wag, red wag and hi fin lyretail.


Features

  • Approx. size: 2-5cm
  • Maximum size: 8cm
  • Origin: Mexico/Central America
  • Ideal number kept together: 3+
  • Family: Poeciliidae
  • Social: Peaceful
  • Tank Level: Top, mid-dweller
  • Care Level: Easy
  • Breeding: Live-bearer
  • Diet: Omnivore
  • SCIENTIFIC NAME: Xiphophorus helleri


Water conditions

  • pH: 6.0–8.0
  • Hardness: 90–447 ppm
  • Temp: 23-28°C
  • Minimum tank size: 20 Gallons


Ease of care
Easy. The sexes will need to either be kept separately or 2 females to every 1 male. They will harass the females otherwise.

Over several generations, you may note an increase in your fry deaths, or your fish may not live as long. If you continue to breed the same populations, you can expect to have health issues resulting from inbreeding . The best fix for this is adding a little genetic diversity through the purchase of new fish or trading with another hobbyist. Unless you know your new fishes' health history, before adding them to your aquarium it is always recommended to quarantine your new fish yourself.

Diet

Swordtails are omnivores that enjoyed a varied diet. Depending on the water temperature, you may need to feed your fish 2-3 times per day. Many tropical fish like to forage throughout the day, so fewer feedings are not ideal for swordtails. Swordtails do well on most community micropelleted diets or tropical flake, and also enjoy occasional frozen and freeze-dried treats.

Compatibility

A community aquarium with no fin nipping fish.

Swordtails do best living in a group, so plan on at least 4-5 individuals per aquarium. You are welcome to mix different varieties together, but be ready for a swarm of baby swordtails if you mix males and females. Being live-bearing fish, swordtails can reproduce very quickly, reaching sexual maturity as early as three months of age. Some potential tankmates include Neon Tetras, Coolie Loach or Corydoras.

Swordtails do well in many different aquarium setups. These easy going fish are good for beginners and a colorful addition to any community tank. They are active fish, so make sure there are not too many decorative items in their way. The best combination for swordtails is to keep your décor and plants to the lower half to 2/3 of your tank and leave the top of the tank open for active swimming.

Male swordtails may take up territory and become aggressive towards other fish. Be sure to have plenty of room for all your swordtails, despite their small size! It may help to add fake or live plants to give your fish more hiding areas.

Breeding/ Sex
Easy.

Livebearer fish, such as swordtails, can easily over populate an aquarium. Many beginners are not aware of the swordtail's livebearing abilities and are suddenly surprised by a swarm of baby swordtails. Many swordtail owners start with just a few swordtails, not realizing that the females may be pregnant when acquired. Even one pregnant swordtail may surprise a novice fish owner with a sudden population explosion.

Swordtails have specific characteristics to easily differentiate male and female fish. Males have the characteristic "sword" on the ventral aspect of their tails. Females have a rounded tail edge and tend to have thicker bodies. This comes from carrying all their live baby fry. The anal fin is also pointed in males and fan-shaped in females. This can be used to determine gender in young fish before the males develop their long sword tail.

Swordtail male and female
Swordtail male (top) and female (bottom) 

Swordtails can become mature as early as 3 months old and birth up to 50 fry per spawning. If you don't want more baby swordtails, it is critical that you separate males from females before they reach reproductive maturity. As previously noted, males have the distinctive "sword" on the ventral aspect of their tail fin, and an elongated anal fin, making the identification easy.

Life Span

They can live to anything from 1-5 years in perfect conditions.

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About Assorted Molly Fish

About Assorted Molly Fish

Assorted Mollies

The Molly is a very popular community aquarium fish. This lively species loves to swim around in groups which makes them stand out in a freshwater aquarium. This listing is for a mix of assorted molly species, and will include different patterns and colours drawn from our available stock. The photo is for illustration only - the colours and patterns supplied will be completely random, and may differ from those pictured.

Assorted male and females supplied. We can segregate on request subject to availability - please contact us prior to ordering.

Can you keep Molly fish in salt water aquaria?
Although typically sold as a freshwater fish, yes, mollies can be adapted to live in saltwater. Mollies originate from brackish water lakes in Central and South America, where rivers and oceans meet. Sailfin, Lyretail and normal Mollies can easily transition from freshwater to brackish aquariums using basic acclimating methods, and can even be added to full marine saltwater setups using a longer and gradual slow drip method (ideally for at least 3-4 hours).

Features
Approx. size: 1-2" / 2-5cm
Maximum size: 7cm
Origin: Southern and Central America
Ideal number kept together: 3+

Water conditions
Our conditions: temp 22 °C, pH 7.5
Ideal pH: 7.0 – 8.5
Hardness: 15 – 35°H
Ideal temperature: 21 – 29 °C

Ease of care
Easy. Mollies are hardy fish and prolific breeders, very few specific requirements.

Diet
The food we recommend is tropical fish flake. They can occasionally have frozen or live food like daphnia.

Compatibility
A community aquarium with similar size non-aggressive species (avoid long-finned fish or fin nippers) is ideal.

Breeding
Mollies are live bearers so will spawn extremely quickly and while relatively young. Female molly fish must be monitored to ensure they are not harassed by breeding males (including their own juveniles!) 

Life Span
Assorted molly fish have an average lifespan live of 2-5 years in perfect conditions.

 

See Below for other fish which can go with your fish

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Getting a Tropical Fish

Getting a Tropical Fish

Keeping fish is a great hobby. A well maintained aquarium not only looks attractive, but watching your fish in their environment can be a good stress reliever too.

First of all you need to decide what type of fish you want to keep. If you’re considering keeping fish and you’ve never done so before, you might want to think about coldwater fish as a start. Goldfish are one of the easiest fish to keep and there are many different varieties to choose from, from comets, fantails and orandas to lionheads and shubunkins.

Alternatively, you might like to consider keeping tropical fish, which require water to be maintained at a constant temperature between 20 and 27 degrees C. There is a wide variety of tropical fish to choose from, however while many can be mixed together in the same aquarium, you need to be careful about considering compatibility between varieties of fish.                                   

 

 

Aquariums are basically a complete mini-ecosystem. There is a wide choice available and your pet shop will be pleased to advise. Remember fish kept in an aquarium are totally dependent on you for their welfare. There is a wide variety of fish to choose from: your pet shop will be pleased to advise you on a suitable selection of fish. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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How Many?

Here at PAWS we will be happy to advise you on a suitable selection of fish for your tank. The temptation is to fill an aquarium with numerous fish of all sorts of different varieties and colour in order to make it look as attractive and interesting as possible. In reality, there are certain rules that need to be followed to ensure that you don’t overcrowd your aquarium. As tanks come in different shapes and sizes, there is no hard and fast rule, but considering size versus volume is a good guide. For coldwater fish, allow 0.5cm of fish per litre of water. For tropical fish, allow 1cm of fish per water. Remember stocking level guidelines work on the basis of fully grown adult fish, so you should keep fish growth in min

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Housing

Your aquarium is a complete mini ecosystem housing fish that will be totally dependent on you for their welfare. As such, choosing the right tank or aquarium is vital, and there are a great deal available to choose from. Size is also important as this will determine the size and number of fish you will be able to keep, as is the positioning of your tank. Once your tank is full, it will be extremely heavy, so try to decide on where to position your tank before filling it up! As a general rule of thumb, it is a good idea to go for a slightly larger aquarium, as there is a greater margin for error in comparison to a smaller one. Nevertheless, it is important to keep in mind what will suit your home as well as what you can afford.

It is also very important to remember that when setting up a tank for the first time, it needs to be well established before you begin to stock it with fish. Once it is ready, the tank will need to be stocked gradually and slowly. We recommend that you come and visit us in store or contact us for further advice about stocking and the most suitable type of aquarium for your fish.

 

THE TANK

There is a great variety of designs and sizes to choose from. Always select a branded product. Handle with great care and transport horizontally. The tank must be placed either on a specially designed stand or a strong rigid surface with an expanded polystyrene mat underneath the tank. Remember that a full tank is heavy. Position the tank away from windows as daylight encourages algae growth. Never move a full tank.

 

THE EQUIPMENT

A heater thermostat is required to maintain water temperature. This is normally between 70º and 80º F (20º and 27º C) depending on your fish. A thermometer is required to monitor the temperature. A filtration system is required to maintain good water quality, essential for the health and well being of your fish. Purpose-built lighting systems will bring the tank to full life and stimulate plant growth. Too much light will result in excess growth of green algae, too little will cause plants to die. For tidiness and safety it is sensible to connect all wiring to a control panel.

 

GRAVEL AND ROCK

Use only suitable gravel and rock. Your pet shop or aquatic store will advise you. The material should be thoroughly washed before placing in the tank.

 

SELECTION OF FISH AND PLANTS

There is a wide variety to choose from, but always seek advice from your pet shop as to the suitability of your chosen selection. Do not exceed the number recommended for your particular set-up. Plants should be planted thickly for the best effect, but they may need thinning out once established. Artificial plants are also available.

 

SETTING UP YOUR TANK

Thoroughly rinse your new tank with clean water. If you are using an under-gravel filter install this first, spread the gravel across the base of the tank, sloping from back to front. The rock can be partially buried in the gravel. Next slowly fill the tank with water. Install the heater and airline from the pump to the filter before connecting to the mains. Water conditioners can be added at this point and the tank left to settle for up to 7 days before introducing the fish Check that the equipment is working properly before adding the fish. When bringing your new fish home do not let the water get cold. Float the bag in the tank for 15 minutes, then open the bag and allow the fish to swim into their new home. Introduce hardier species first.

 

INTRODUCING YOUR FISH INTO THE TANK

Firstly turn the tank light off as this helps to reduce stress. Float the unopened bag in the top of the tank for at least 15 minutes to regulate any temperature differences, this avoids shocking the fish. Open the bag and allow the tank water to enter it before gently releasing your fish into the tank. Turn the light back on after about 2 hours.

 

CHOOSING & BUYING YOUR TROPICAL FISH

There is a wide variety of fish to choose from and although many can be mixed together in the new aquarium care must be exercised with respect to compatibility for temperature requirements, feeding habits, water quality and sociability. Your pet shop will be pleased to advise you on a suitable selection of fish.

A healthy fish should:

 swim easily through the water and be active

 not gasp at the surface of the tank or swim in a peculiar manner

 have scales that cover the body evenly without any cuts or growths 

 

Equipment

Keeping fish is not as simple as buying a tank, filling it with water and adding fish to it. There are a few things you will need to purchase to ensure that your tank is able to effectively house your fish and maintain a stable environment for them. If you are keeping tropical fish, both a thermostat and water heater are essential in setting and maintaining consistent water temperature. You will need to purchase gravel, a filtration system and a pump, as well as a water conditioner to make your tap water safe to use in the tank. Plants and ornaments will help you create an interesting and attractive environment. The equipment you will need for your aquarium will depend very much on the type of fish you plan to keep. Come and speak to us about your specific needs and we will be happy to guide you.

 

 

Feeding

Fish food comes in flake, pellet or frozen form. These foods provide a perfectly balanced diet containing all the nutrients necessary to keep your fish healthy. Some fish feed from the surface, while others feed from the middle or from the bottom of the tank and you should keep this in mind when purchasing food for them. Surface feeders like flakes and floating pellets while mid-water feeders prefer granular or slow sinking food. Bottom feeders should be offered quick sinking foods or tablets. Feed your fish once a day and start with a small amount which you can adjust accordingly. Fish should be fed sparingly with a suitable proprietary brand. There are many to choose from. Your pet shop will be pleased to advise

 

Maintenance

Water quality is the most important factor in keeping fish healthy. As such, regular water changes are vital. You should siphon off 25% of water from the tank and replace it with fresh, conditioned water every two weeks. However, as all tanks are different and house different fish, it is a good idea to invest in a water quality testing kit which will enable you to keep an eye on the levels of nitrite and ammonia in the water so you’ll know when to carry out a water change. Check the thermometer at least daily. Never use hot water from the domestic supply. At least every 18 months completely empty the tank, keeping the water to refill afterwards, clean the rocks and gravel (not with detergent) and replace everything carefully. Remove uneaten food, rotting plants and excreta regularly.

 

  

Compatibility Chart

Shopping List 

 Aquarium Tank

 Rock / Stones

 Plants

 Gravel

 Heaters

 Lighting

 Thermometer

 Water Test Kits

 Water Conditioner

 Filter

 Air Pump

 Food

 Ornaments

 Remedies

 A good book on tropical fish care

 Fish Net

 Cleaning Pad

 Siphon / Stone Cleaner

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